Ikaria

Overview & Reasons to visit

Ikaria combines spectacular mountain scenery and gorges with a fascinating history. It’s people are long-lived proud and  fiercely independent making it distinctly different to many other Greek islands.

The comparatively isolated situation adds to its appeal and the preservation of traditional ways. Ikaria is famous for it’s extravagant village festivals known as panegyria.

The road infrastructure is limited and primitive but allows access to the main towns and villages with amazing views en route.

How to reach

Ikaria is one of the more difficult islands to reach due to the limited ferry routes available especially outside the peak season.

Ikaria has a local airport with flights from Athens with Olympic & Sky Express. The airport is at the eastern end of the island so Agios Kyrios is readily accessible but the north coast resorts have a very limited bus service so a hire car or taxis is the only practicable choice. These resorts are about an hours drive on a picturesque but challenging road. Taxi cost would be at least 50 euros.

Ikaria can be accessed by ferry in a number of ways but there are few daily services even in high season. Blue Star sail from Piraeus,Samos & Myconos but the timings and days vary considerably so detailed checking of itineraries is essential. This is is also complicated by the fact that there are 2 ports used by the ferries, Evodilos on the north coast and Agios Kyrios on the south coast. Also there are 3 ports on Samos to add further confusion.Karlosvasi and Vathy on the north coast and Pythogorion on south coast near to the airport.

Dodecanese Seaways have a twice weekly service into Agios Kyrios which runs from Kos via several of the Dodecanese islands.

Several of the ferries call into Fourni on trip to or from Samos

Sea Gem ferry “Megalochorio” runs from Karlovasi on Samos to Agios Kyrios weekly. The ferry is a smaller older ferry so is not recommended for poor sailors but saved us from missing a flight from Samos when it ran when Dodecanese Seaways cancelled their sailing.

Megalochorio

Travelling Around

Ikaria is a large island but with effectively 2 roads which run from Agios Kyrios which is the capital to the resorts and villages on the north coast. Both roads are narrow climb over a lot of mountainous terrain so should be treated with respect! Also do not rely on Google maps it will lead you astray!

Buses are very infrequent and timetables seem to be a secret unavailable to visitors so car hire is the best option. There are many car hire companies based in the resorts and some will arrange collection at the airport,Taxis are available and fine for short distances but will be expensive for trips of any distance. Guided Tours are another option for those who do not wish to hire a car.

Motor bike hire is also available but the nature of the roads are such that are best left to experienced riders

Motor bike hire is also available but the nature of the roads are such that are best left to experienced riders

Ikarian Road with optional goats

Sights & Beaches

Ikaria  has a number of beaches on the north coast around Evdilos including Nas and Livadi which are accessible and several small beaches on south coast including the scenic “Seychelles” beach and there are many small mostly pebble beaches around the island.

There are thermal springs notably at the spa resort of Thermia close to Agios Kirikos.

The tower of Drakonos is on a Hellenistic site in the east of the island and the ruins of the original main city of Oinoe are on the north coast.

The mountain villages in west of the island particularly Raches are picturesque, idiosyncratic and famous for their annual festival which draw in large crowds. 

Throughout the whole of the island there or stunning views of the mountainous terrain and gorges.

Car hire is the only practical way of accessing most of these sights.

Thermal springs at Thermia

History

Ikaria has been known by several names including Doliche and Ichthyoessa but its current name is based on the legend of Ikaros whose wings allegedly melted in the sun and he fell into the sea. The sea surrounding these islands is also known as the Ikarian sea.

Ikaria  has been inhabited since Neolithic time ,became part of the empire of Polycrates, tyrant of Samos. By the 5th century BC, the Ikarian cities of Oenoe and Thermae had become members of the Athenian-dominated Delian League.

In the Middle Ages,  Ikaria was part of the Byzantine Empire, but the population were trending to move inland due to the proliferation of piracy.Ikaria was later taken over by the Genoese Republic then  taken over by the Knights Hospitaller.The Ottoman Empire seized Ikaria in 1521 but rule in a limited way.

Ikaria broke away from the Ottoman Empire in 1827, during the Greek War of Independence, but was not included in the territory of newly independent Greece,The Free State of Ikaria  was declared on 18 July 1912, on 4 November 1912, Ikaria officially became part of the Kingdom of Greece. The island suffered losses Second World War as the result of the Italian and German occupation.After the civil War the Greek government used the island to exile about 13,000 people, the majority of the locals remain sympathetic to left parties and communism, with the island often referred to as the “Red Rock”.